Perch Work – Bad Dog Agility Academy

Perch Work

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  • says:

    Pike and I have been working on perch work! Your feedback is appreciated–h-n1gzY

    • Jennifer Crank says:

      This looks great. Definitely ready to move on. I would work to add a verbal and/or lower your perch. Don’t do both in the same session but both can be done. You can alway add more motion between clicks. Rotate mat least 1/2 way around if not a full circle. Remember, this is ultimately going to be applied with speed on course so you can begin to increase the “distance” he has to travel between clicks.

      Also, I didn’t love the click at :23. He didn’t seem really close to you and parallel. His butt seemed to be angled away from you a bit. Set you standards high. If you are already compromising, what will we have left by the time you are applying it to a course?!

  • Claire says:

    I have been working on perch work with CharLee for a few months and we have been progressing to smaller and flatter perches.
    After watching your video I can see that I need to work more on having CharLee get closer Into heel position. Do you agree?

    • Jennifer Crank says:

      Gosh, he is pretty! 😉

      Yes, I would like to see more heel position. It seems you have been, and still are, rewarding just for the rotating and not necessarily for heel position. So yes, I’d like to see him get closer to you. What you currently have is great for body awareness but won’t help much for handling.

      • Claire says:

        Here is CharLee working on perch work and getting closer to my leg.

        • Jennifer Crank says:

          You are getting there but I think you can increase your expectations. You’re rewarding when he just makes one or two tiny steps and at this point I would expect you to be able to rotate almost 270° around the perch with him coming in at your side. I would also keep an eye on your markers. You need to be consistent about marking the exact moment he comes in the heel position. From what I see, he does not understand the goal is to be parallel to you. He just thinks movement of his feet is the objective and if I didn’t know the goal, I would assume that too. And maybe shorter sessions. He looked very bored and unmotivated in that first session. Keep at it! You’ll get there.

  • Sheri says:

    I have 2 questions. What do you do for a dog that keeps bailing off the perch when you start turning into them? What do you do for a dog that keeps jumping up to take food out of your hand?

    • Jennifer Crank says:

      Question 1 will be fixed when you solve the problem of question 2. It is important for all of my dogs to learn impulse control with both food and toys. I do Susan Garretts’ game of “It’s Yer Choice” which is designed to teach the dogs that food in your hand is to be given, not taken. Start with a handful of treats in a closed fist. Open you hand and as the dog goes for the food, close it. Don’t open it again until they back off. Basically, you are trying to teach them that if they back off the food, the hand opens and they will be given treat. When they come charging in without permission, no cookies. I found this video during a quick search on YouTube that seems pretty accurate:

      You can see this similar concept in the crate training videos except it is crate position instead of a perch. And we can work on it Monday.

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