Introduction | + |
Lesson 1 |
How to Use the Problem Solver |
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Lesson 2 |
Suggest a Topic |
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Contacts (dogwalk, a-frame, teeter, table) | + |
Lesson 1 |
What do all four contacts have in common with the start line? |
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Lesson 2 |
My dog learned the dogwalk fine, but when I started teaching the teeter, she started to slow down or even stop at the end of the first plank. Why? |
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Lesson 3 |
My dog is scared of the teeter or hesitates at the tipping point. |
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Non-Contact Obstacle Performance | + |
Lesson 1 |
Knocking the Bar on Backsides |
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Start Lines | - |
Lesson 1 |
Live Training Session with Esteban on Start Line Stays |
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Handling | + |
Lesson 1 |
Why does my dog head check (look at me)? |
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Lesson 2 |
Why does my dog slow down and/or turn the wrong way on pinwheels? |
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Lesson 3 |
What does backside commitment mean? |
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Lesson 4 |
Why is pushing into your dog bad? |
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Lesson 5 |
How do I avoid pushing into my dog if I'm stuck on the wrong side? |
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Lesson 6 |
Where should I front cross? |
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Lesson 7 |
Why does my dog confuse wraps and rear crosses? |
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Lesson 8 |
Why does my dog refuse jumps and turn away from me when I'm trying to do a rear cross? |
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Lesson 9 |
Can I use deceleration cues if I'm a distance handler? |
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Lesson 10 |
How can I help my dog keep the bars up when jumping? |
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Lesson 11 |
What does Greg Derrett mean when he talks about "rear crossing the refusal plane"? |
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Lesson 12 |
What's a serpentine? |
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Lesson 13 |
What is a Forced Front Cross? |
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Lesson 14 |
How can I proof the bypass cue in training? |
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Lesson 15 |
How can I cover a lot of ground on my front cross without taking extra steps? |
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Lesson 16 |
How can I use verbal cues to discriminate between obstacles? |
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Lesson 17 |
How can I do a full 360 wrap when I'm on the OUTSIDE of a jump? |
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Lesson 18 |
How can I create space/distance on a post turn or Jaakko turn? |
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Lesson 19 |
What's the difference between a Jaakko turn, a post turn, and a front cross? |
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Lesson 20 |
What are some of the different types of blind crosses? |
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Lesson 21 |
What's the difference between the bypass (flappy tappy) cue and the threadle cue? |
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Lesson 22 |
How do I choose which way to turn on course when there's a choice on a wrap or backside? |
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Lesson 23 |
Quick Start Guide to the Bypass Cue |
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Lesson 24 |
What's a German turn and how do I do it? |
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Lesson 25 |
What's the difference between a forced front cross and a threadle? |
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Lesson 26 |
How can I use threadle handling for tunnel discriminations? |
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Lesson 27 |
How can I teach a rear cross using a food bowl? |
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Weave Poles | + |
Lesson 1 |
Is it better to hop or single step through the weaves? |
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Lesson 2 |
Why do I need to let my dog "see" the weave pole entry? |
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Lesson 3 |
My dog pops out at the 10th pole. |
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Dog Motivation and Drive | + |
Lesson 1 |
How do I create a focused, attentive, driven dog? |
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Lesson 2 |
How do I teach my dog to initiate play? |
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Lesson 3 |
How to I stop my over-excited dog from biting me at the end of runs? |
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Lesson 4 |
What is a crate-to-crate tugging routine? |
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Lesson 5 |
How do I stop my dog from laying down with the toy when I want them to bring it back to me? |
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Lesson 6 |
How do I stop my dog from biting me during tugging? |
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Lesson 7 |
Why does my dog lose focus on me as soon as we enter the ring? |
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Dog Training Principles | + |
Lesson 1 |
How should I leave the agility ring if my dog fails to meet criteria during the run? |
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Lesson 2 |
Training Session: How does Esteban deal with mistakes in practice? |
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Hi. I’m new to the VIP program and one of my reasons for joining is my start line stay. Bruno, 6 year old PyrShep. Start line routine is “where’s my dog” (lie down between my legs) then, depending on the course, either “Okay” release to the first obstacle or leadout with “Okay” release from somewhere on course. His reliability at trials has decreased to 0 over the past few months. He’s perfect at home (have you heard that before?). I get around it at UKI by slingshotting the first obstacle (and I think that alone may have reduced his ability to start line stay) but at AKC that’s not allowed. So…. I have 8 days of AKC coming up. Is there something training-wise that I can try in a FEO setting (T2B or FAST)? He’s highly motivated by food and motivated almost as much by his frisbee (but, in AKC, the frisbee can’t be tossed).
Thanks for any help.
If you work through all the challenges on this page, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how quickly your dog figure out “proofing game”.
https://baddogagilityacademy.com/course/teaching-obstacles/module-10/best-bda-sls-resources/
And then once they get the idea of proofing, you can use that at trials like this:
https://baddogagilityacademy.com/proofing-your-start-lines-at-trials/
Hi Esteban,
This is both a tugging and start line set of problems. While Quitte has strong food drive, I don’t really like using it in practice because it does not generate the same level of drive and arousal as working in a class, seminar or trial. Balls come closer, but since she hurt herself so badly (10 weeks no agility) going after a bad bounce, I’ve decided to stop using them (she turns 7 years old in a few days).
A huge problem working with a tug heretofore was that she became over-aroused very quickly, and frenzied (barking) when I didn’t offer it to her after a sequence when she thought she was going to get it, or when I made a mistake and stopped, etc. A lot of her attention was always to some extent on trying to keep track of the toy, and anticipate when she would get it.
I have made a video with some explanatory notes at the beginning about what I’ve been doing over the past year or so to try to fix her over-arousal problems. It then goes into a recent 8-minute training session (I think you need the whole thing to analyze the problems) that probably is the calmest and most focused working with a toy that she has ever been. However, when looking it over I saw a lot of inconsistencies, and vague sequences of reward, etc.
So I was wondering if some time – no hurry – you could take a look and reinforce anything in my notes or in the video of what I am doing that seems good, and point out other areas that need work, or the protocol needs to be changed or substituted with something else. (For example, you will see a sloppy reset/redirect that I do after a downed bar that predictably results in another bar down and over-arousal).
By far her highest value rewards are, in order of value:
1) Striking the tug out of my hands at top speed and carrying it away.
2) Striking the tug in my hand and tugging hard (I let go when we are done, never ask her to give it back anymore)
3) Tugging from a short distance or stationary start (i.e., I let her strike the tug in my hand but immediately tell her to “wait” for a short pause until I’ve braced myself)
4) Throwing the tug on the ground: “get it”
5) Tossing the tug to her
I’m thinking the start line protocol should be:
1) I line up at start line and wait for her to come to heel position (trusting, for now, that as the protocol becomes more predictable to her, she will do this more quickly); wait until she a places tug on ground; sits, and makes eye contact
2) I use verbal “close”
3) I walk away immediately
After a downed bar (first, I know I should get better at I get better at stopping before the next obstacle). Also, after I make a mistake and have to reset: I ask her for a down or other behavior, and then let her “take it” and carry it around while I set the bar.
If she is showing symptoms of over-arousal, I use my calming “hand” cue. For “mistakes” that are essentially handling errors, I give her lower reinforcers #’s 4 and 5.
I should have tightened up all this kind of stuff years and years ago, but better late than never, I hope.
Thanks for any help. And, again. I know this is a lot, so don’t feel pressured to answer soon or extensively – I’ll appreciate any feedback you have.
https://youtu.be/HcRThWdZwjM
That was great to watch thankyou. I can see how leadouts would be better and faster with mark and reward off the spot. Ok
Glad you enjoyed it! You’ve identified one of the single best take away’s from the lecture.