| Getting Started | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introduction |
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| Lesson 2 |
Age Considerations |
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| Tunnel | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
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| Lesson 2 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Shaping) |
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| Lesson 3 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Cues) |
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| Lesson 4 |
Adding Angled Approaches |
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| Lesson 5 |
Generalizing the Tunnel |
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| Lesson 6 |
Transitioning from Straight to Curved Tunnels |
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| Lesson 7 |
Additional Tunnel Resources |
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| Tire | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Tire |
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| Table | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Table Foundation |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Table |
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| Lesson 3 |
Proofing the Table |
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| Jumps | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introduction to Jumping |
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| Lesson 2 |
Circling a Cone |
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| Lesson 3 |
Circling a Wing/Jump |
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| Lesson 4 |
Offered Arc Jumping |
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| Lesson 5 |
Raising the Height |
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| Lesson 6 |
Lured Wraps |
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| Lesson 7 |
Set Point |
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| Lesson 8 |
Jump Grids |
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| Teeter | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Foundation: Buja Board |
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| Lesson 2 |
Foundation: Bang Game |
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| Lesson 3 |
Jungle Gym Teeter |
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| Lesson 4 |
TipAssist/TeachIt Overview |
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| Lesson 5 |
First Sessions with TipAssist |
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| Aframe | - |
| Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
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| Lesson 2 |
Box Method |
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| Lesson 3 |
Box Method - Where to Get Your Box |
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| Lesson 4 |
Box Method - Introducing the Box |
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| Lesson 5 |
Box Method - Introducing the Verbal Cue and Remote Treat |
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| Lesson 6 |
Introduction to the Aframe |
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| Lesson 7 |
Box Method - Adding the Box to the Aframe |
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| Lesson 8 |
Box Method - Flattening the Box on the Aframe |
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| Lesson 9 |
Box Method - Adding Speed |
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| Lesson 10 |
Contacts Proofing |
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| Weaves | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Weave Diaries |
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| Lesson 2 |
Weave Diaries Continued |
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| Lesson 3 |
Introducing Your Dog to Weave Pole Guides |
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| Lesson 4 |
Weave Proofing |
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| Dogwalk | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the 2o2o Position |
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| Lesson 3 |
Adding Proofing to the 2o2o Position |
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| Lesson 4 |
Adding Motion and Adding a Verbal |
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| Lesson 5 |
Introducing the Dogwalk |
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| Lesson 6 |
Contacts Proofing |
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| Start Line Stays | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Best BDA SLS Resources |
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https://youtube.com/shorts/nvDcR4RjdVY?si=EYhONx8IMspvDix2
Todays video
Hmmmm….I don’t love having a stride regulator on the approach side. IMO, I’d have one regulator on the second slat on the down side and another on the last slate before the yellow. So slide the second regulator down a bit and move the one from the takeoff side to the landing side.
I don’t think you need to retrain to the box based on what I see here but some tweaks to get better striding might help.
Thanks so much for the tips on moving the stride regulators. My previous instructor had us use one on the up side so that’s why I had used it there. I agree that I need to tweak his stride for the downside and will make those adjustments later this week during practice.
Hi! My cocker spaniel – 3 years old – was taught a running a frame using stride regulators. He’s been consistently hitting the yellow – albeit high – since when started agility. Then, about 2 weeks ago he started missing & leaping from the blue right above the yellow contact zone. He earned his ADCH last weekend but missed all his a frames! I need revisit his a frame and have a few questions. After watching his videos from today’s practice, he is making two strides on the down. His first stride looks too high so he the ends up jumping after the 2nd stride. What’s the number of strides on the downside should he have (12” small cocker)? Whenever he ran over lowere frame, he hit all the contact zones. Should I go back to lower frame and then move back to full size or do I need to introduce the box method? He’s a really good pup and I want him to get back to consistent contacts.
I think it is very reasonable for a 12” cocker to have two strides on the downside of the aframe. Meaning, jump the apex, hit one in the blue, and one in the yellow. If a dog had been fine with their striding for months/years and then all of a sudden wasn’t extending as much as normal, the first thing I’d consider is something physical.
But it is was always close and you are looking for more extension, then stride regulator or the box method could be great options.
Hi. I would like to retrain my dog that has stopped DW and A Frame (2o2o) to this criteria, running but with the two back feet rather than the split stride. I’ve looked at all the videos and I think this will suit his natural striding. My question is can I use stride regulators instead of the box, but spaced at same distance the two sides of the box would be?
The advantage to the box vs the two stride regulator is that you can do a lot of the training, work, and reps on the flat. With two separate regulators, you will likely need to focus on the stride regulating on the aframe. But if you are jut trying to adjust striding ON the aframe, then yes, this should work.
And just for clarification, while I think the box method is great for the aframe, I don’t suggest this method for the RDW.
Hi Jenn. I made the adjustments, moved the blue stride regulator off the apex, moved the T&T further out & set the jump up in line with the Aframe. Initially (1st vid) he took 2 strides up, hit right before the blue regulator and then kind of pitter pattered down. Towards the end (2nd vid) he replaced the pitter patter with 2 strides. Not sure if this is the goal. So 3 strides up to the blue regulator and 3 strides down. He jumps 12″ (measures 14″).
Thanks!!
https://youtu.be/edDMPV533Ss
https://youtu.be/8Qv4OKjK0q8
Lets see if we can make a small adjustment to the box placement and get a bit more confidence and speed.
Feedback: https://link.getonform.com/view?id=eVMNWWhdNbfZ9Cv9oGis
Here is what my pup Blue usually does on the A Frame. Can I retrain him to running contacts? https://youtu.be/VzApio41mlA
When I watch this video, my initial thought is that there’s nothing about running that would PREVENT your dog from doing this same behavior. However, it is possible that your dog is just very confused and in the process of training a running aframe, you fill in some holes in understanding and it does indeed result in a better performance.
Before we go down that road though, what IS your AFrame criteria and how was it taught? It seems pretty clear that the dog is either confused or not confident about their performance. We might be able to just back up one step in the training process and work through the confusion.
For example, I think I would try lowering the aframe and see if I could get the dog running over and into the 2o2o without pausing at the top.
If you try the box method, you’re going to introduce it on a lowered aframe first anyway, so we might as well try the lowered aframe with your current end behavior and see if we can get your dog running over without the pause at the top.
Thank you Sarah. I used your 2o2o method but I think all the focus was on what happens at the bottom of the frame so I never gave much thought about what happens from the beginning forward. I see in this running method having the dog run over the top and his stride and where he touches is critical to the entire performance. I never trained any of that. For instance Jenn back chains it and that seems to get the strides from the top to the end worked out first. Should I do something with back chaining perhaps? It just seems more intuitive not to ask the dog to stop. If he knows he has to stop then he creeps down to the stopping point. Just thinking out loud here but that seems to be the problem.
Hi Sarah. We went out and worked on this today (I have to rent a field 40 mins away), and he did somewhat better w/more speed but the speed is on the upside and he puts the breaks on from the top down. Maybe we just need to work on it more to build value for the overall behavior? I still think that having to stop is a problem. What do you think about his performance here? Next time I will put the camera on the other side so I am not in the way! BTW thank you very much for your assistance.
https://youtu.be/NWo9kQ3IELI
Since Sarah has started working with you on this I will let her continue but I just wanted to second what she said. It is possible you’ll get some “creeping” when switching to a running aframe, but FAR less likely. The creeping that you do have is not due to the decision to do the 2o2o but in the training/clarity. In this second video your click seems a bit early and I would lower your aframe. Less gravity makes it easier to stop and therefor more speed into position.
Thanks Jenn. I actually was wondering if I should be clicking when he continues going over the top ( as opposed to stopping at the top which he does frequently.) So ultimately would it be possible to retrain him to do the running AF or should I continue training in the current manner? Our overall course time is very slow. We are in AKC Excellent now and are typically 5 secs too slow.
I think I would try the running Aframe. It will help keep the overall energy, motivation, and momentum up. I also think that you could go BACK to the stopped once you’ve patterned a speedy overall performance.
Now that is an excellent idea!! Thanks again Sarah. We now have our summer work cut out for us.
Never mind! Looks like it’s in the DW section 😉
Where is this included? I’m not seeing it. Thanks!
2 on 2 off with Rear Feet Focus (Stopped Contact): This 2 on 2 off variation creates a similar behavior to the 2 on 2 off with Front Feet Focus, however, the teaching focuses on helping dog understand that their rear feet should be on the contact rather than focusing on their front feet being off the contact. This is the method taught at IncrediPAWS and the method included in this Teaching Obstacles course.