Getting Started | + |
Lesson 1 |
Introduction |
Lesson 2 |
Age Considerations |
Tunnel | + |
Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
Lesson 2 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Shaping) |
Lesson 3 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Cues) |
Lesson 4 |
Adding Angled Approaches |
Lesson 5 |
Generalizing the Tunnel |
Lesson 6 |
Transitioning from Straight to Curved Tunnels |
Lesson 7 |
Additional Tunnel Resources |
Tire | + |
Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Tire |
Table | + |
Lesson 1 |
Table Foundation |
Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Table |
Lesson 3 |
Proofing the Table |
Jumps | + |
Lesson 1 |
Introduction to Jumping |
Lesson 2 |
Circling a Cone |
Lesson 3 |
Circling a Wing/Jump |
Lesson 4 |
Offered Arc Jumping |
Lesson 5 |
Raising the Height |
Lesson 6 |
Lured Wraps |
Lesson 7 |
Set Point |
Lesson 8 |
Jump Grids |
Teeter | + |
Lesson 1 |
Foundation: Buja Board |
Lesson 2 |
Jungle Gym Teeter |
Aframe | - |
Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
Lesson 2 |
Box Method |
Lesson 3 |
Box Method - Where to Get Your Box |
Lesson 4 |
Box Method - Introducing the Box |
Lesson 5 |
Box Method - Introducing the Verbal Cue and Remote Treat |
Lesson 6 |
Introduction to the Aframe |
Lesson 7 |
Box Method - Adding the Box to the Aframe |
Lesson 8 |
Box Method - Flattening the Box on the Aframe |
Lesson 9 |
Box Method - Adding Speed |
Weaves | + |
Lesson 1 |
Weave Diaries |
Lesson 2 |
Weave Diaries Continued |
Lesson 3 |
Introducing Your Dog to Weave Pole Guides |
Dogwalk | + |
Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
Lesson 2 |
Introducing the 2o2o Position |
Lesson 3 |
Adding Proofing to the 2o2o Position |
Lesson 4 |
Adding Motion and Adding a Verbal |
Lesson 5 |
Introducing the Dogwalk |
How quickly do you move from 5 ft to 5.6 ft? My sheltie is successful 100 percent so far at 5.6, but she takes 2 or 3 smaller steps after coming over the apex and before bouncing thru the box. She was more confident at the 5 ft level, so maybe I moved up too quickly? I did one successful session at 5 ft, then one session at 5.3, then moved up to 5.6 where I noticed more steps after the apex and before the box. Do I need to just do more reps at 5.6 until she gets her striding perfected, or do I need to lower the frame again and for how long and what increments?
I would say to do more at 5’3”. Adding strides can be for two reasons; 1) confidence. If they are unsure they won’t power over the apex like a dog who is really comfortable. 2) size. How big is your sheltie? Sometime the small dogs have a harder time getting the reach over the top to do two hits. Vento is about 14.5”.
Do you have any video I could look at to,offer suggestions? I’d love to see a few reps at each height. But I’m general, lower the aframe for a bit longer.
I noticed the aframe was lower in the previous lesson. At what point did you raise it? ….. Would you raise it while still having the box with height?
In this video the aframe is at 5’. Yes, I work the aframe up to full height before I remove the box. Frankly, I don’t remove the box for awhile. I will get the aframe to full height, add speed and handling, put it in sequences, and make sure that those things happen with a 80% success rate or higher before moving on.
Ok, thanks. Do you raise the aframe before flattening the box?
This is a ways off for me, but do you “disassemble” the box piece by piece as in the Rachel Sanders dvd? I have also seen people switch some of the white pvc with yellow (painted or taped) to help make the box “disappear”.
I prefer to flatten the box before raising the aframe. I actually prefer to flatten the box as early as possible.
Yes, I do disassemble the box but I do it quickly. The box is acting as a stride regulator so I will normally take off the bottom and two sides all at the same time. This just leaves a single piece of PVC. This often gets left on for awhile. I have painted a box yellow in the past and I am certainly not opposed to the idea. I would say it depends on how natural the dogs striding is and how much effort it takes to fade the box.