| Getting Started | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introduction |
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| Lesson 2 |
Age Considerations |
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| Tunnel | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
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| Lesson 2 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Shaping) |
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| Lesson 3 |
Tunnel Foundation (with Cues) |
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| Lesson 4 |
Adding Angled Approaches |
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| Lesson 5 |
Generalizing the Tunnel |
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| Lesson 6 |
Transitioning from Straight to Curved Tunnels |
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| Lesson 7 |
Additional Tunnel Resources |
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| Tire | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introducing Circular Objects |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Tire |
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| Table | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Table Foundation |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the Table |
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| Lesson 3 |
Proofing the Table |
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| Jumps | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Introduction to Jumping |
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| Lesson 2 |
Circling a Cone |
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| Lesson 3 |
Circling a Wing/Jump |
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| Lesson 4 |
Offered Arc Jumping |
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| Lesson 5 |
Raising the Height |
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| Lesson 6 |
Lured Wraps |
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| Lesson 7 |
Set Point |
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| Lesson 8 |
Jump Grids |
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| Teeter | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Foundation: Buja Board |
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| Lesson 2 |
Foundation: Bang Game |
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| Lesson 3 |
Jungle Gym Teeter |
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| Aframe | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
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| Lesson 2 |
Box Method |
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| Lesson 3 |
Box Method - Where to Get Your Box |
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| Lesson 4 |
Box Method - Introducing the Box |
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| Lesson 5 |
Box Method - Introducing the Verbal Cue and Remote Treat |
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| Lesson 6 |
Introduction to the Aframe |
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| Lesson 7 |
Box Method - Adding the Box to the Aframe |
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| Lesson 8 |
Box Method - Flattening the Box on the Aframe |
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| Lesson 9 |
Box Method - Adding Speed |
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| Lesson 10 |
Contacts Proofing |
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| Weaves | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Weave Diaries |
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| Lesson 2 |
Weave Diaries Continued |
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| Lesson 3 |
Introducing Your Dog to Weave Pole Guides |
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| Lesson 4 |
Weave Proofing |
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| Dogwalk | - |
| Lesson 1 |
Stopped or Running? |
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| Lesson 2 |
Introducing the 2o2o Position |
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| Lesson 3 |
Adding Proofing to the 2o2o Position |
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| Lesson 4 |
Adding Motion and Adding a Verbal |
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| Lesson 5 |
Introducing the Dogwalk |
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| Lesson 6 |
Contacts Proofing |
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| Start Line Stays | + |
| Lesson 1 |
Best BDA SLS Resources |
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Is your verbal cue the cue you use for the dogwalk/A-frame or a separate cue for 2o-2o?
I’ve trained it both ways, but my current dogs have two separate cues; “walk” for the cue to take the DW and then “target” for the 2o2o. Since I ask for my 2o2o position in so many other scenarios (on the stairs, stretching on a curb, etc) I like to be able to isolate that performance with its own verbal.
I have been working on 1RTO for Yowza’s stop behavior on the DW and Aframe. This video clip shows how we’re doing. When I tried sending her, I realized I needed something to help her focus forward – so I used a lid as a “target” which seemed to help. However, I have just watched some of the videos here in the comments section, and I see that perhaps I could tried the Manners minder, or a toy as a focal point. Would appreciate your suggestions. Also, I am wondering if you would take this behavior onto a 12’ plank before putting it on the DW? Are there any videos on the VIP website that show the first stages of putting the stop on the DW or Aframe?
https://youtu.be/czMZLuL2rDc
We did another session of plank work today -this time I was proofing more with motion, and I added the tunnel as a reward for the later reps. I am unsure what to do when she oversteps the end of the board. I marked the mistake with “whoops” and then I waited until she stepped back, and then rewarded her on the board. Wondering if it would be better to just repeat the rep when she makes a mistake.
https://youtu.be/d91vZTKC4Lk
Second video – all and all, this was pretty good work. I think you’ll just need to be more gradual with the added motion. Reps like :31 and :43 were great!! If you get going too fast and she overshoots them board, I would NOT reward a backwards walk onto the board. In competition, that behavior would be an off course and therefor an NQ so we don’t want to encourage too much of that. I would redo the rep with a bit of help (less distance, slower speed, earlier verbal, etc).
Thanks Jen – for answering all my questions – we should be good to go for a bit now 🙂
Regarding the first video, the first thing you need to do is get a training board that isn’t so slick. She is really struggling with the surface and I think will cause problems with your 2o2o very quickly. With the 1 RTO, it was never intended to actually be just one rear foot but rather the emphasis was on getting a nice low 2o2o to minimize stress on the shoulder. I would be picky and not mark/reward unless she has BOTH back feet on the board. For example, I would not make any reward the first one.
As for the forward focus, I am fine with a target plate or dead toy or manners minder. I’ve used different things for different dogs, and most dogs I can alternate between different options. Make sure that she doesn’t get so focused on the target that she forgets about her feed. She started prioritizing racing to the target over the 2o2o.
Thanks Jen – this information and advice is very helpful. I’ll try putting the target or MM further away, so that she has to focus on her feet more. I’ll also be sure to reward only both back feet on board in the future. My board was wet, which is why it was slippery. It is a rubberized board from Clip n Go, so I’ll make sure to dry it off in the future – if it’s wet. Thanks!
I have another video of Bolo with the 2o2o work. I found that he is offering 2o2o without a cue. My end goal is to cue the obstacle and the 2o2o behavior comes with the obstacle cue. So maybe I’m getting close or am I trying to advance too quickly? In this video sample I have two repetitions of plank work driving to a toy. In the first part of the video, I cue for the 2o2o behavior quickly, in the second part of the video I don’t use a cue. With no cue, Bolo is a full 3/4 of a second faster to get into position. Once I have a helper available, I’ll do some recalls across the plank. Yes, “Get it” is a release to get the toy. I use it routinely in my tug training work.
https://youtu.be/z96lYIlD8V4
I love that you are wanting the two on two off position to become an expected part of the contact performance. I completely agree with this! Once you say “climb/walk/etc” there will be no need for an added “feet” command. If this is the route you want to go then I would go ahead and begin phasing it out now. The second repetition without the “feet” command was significantly better. So the adjustment that I would make from here is rather than releasing with “go-go go,“ I would go ahead and release with whatever dog walk you you would like to use long-term. Awesome work! Not many people have this toy control at the exit of a contact.
Release cue for a stopped dog walk. So I have been training a RC, but put it on the back burner. He is not reliable enough, our dog walk bounciness varies a lot at trials, I’m slower after a knee replacement ! We did have issues with our startline stays , but after a fair amount of work last summer , that is generally fine ( our release word is Fish for that, as something totally different!) . The 2 options at the end of the Dogwalks are 1. specific release word , and then what the next action is or 2. Word for the next action ( left, right tunnel etc). I see that in the video of adding in a release cue you use the word for the next obstacle ( or presumably direction). Is there definite benefits to one over the other ? My a frame will continue to be running .
I always encourage to release from a stationary position with the cue for the next task. Several reasons but “okay” is not a cue; it is a release from a position. It doesn’t tell the dog what to do so it delays information to the dog. If there is a tricky off course nearby, in the time it takes you to say “okay” and then the cue, the dog could commit to the wrong thing. If I told you to sit your dog and then down your dog you would just say “sit” and then “down”. You wouldn’t release after the sit before the down. This is no different.
Thanks. Makes complete sense.
I’m just about ready to get my 15mo BC on the dogwalk, but I’m not 100% happy with his drive to the 2o2o position. He gives me a lot of “Isn’t one paw good enough?” behavior. I get the same behavior with toys as with treats. I’ll go back tomorrow and work with a tunnel as the reward system. In the following video, I get a reasonably good (in my opinion) 2o2o at about the 1 minute mark. Can you point me to some suggestions for improving Bolo’s drive to 2o2o?
https://youtu.be/ztoFQL4ZkfM
I few observations:
I really like how you’re using a nice “yes” marker when he’s right. I might try marking, with a “yes” when he puts that second paw down, even if there is a delay. The “yes” helps reinforce that getting that second paw down was the correct behavior and as he gains confidence in what gets him the click, it should happen more frequently. Instead, he is marked as wrong in these cases. Which gives you less to reward on your way toward getting the fast, driven, right into position repetitions.
If you turn those reps into rewards instead of failures, I would make those reps LOW VALUE reward, and then amp up the value (jackpot) the really good ones. So using differential rewards.
I think having a tunnel to help focus your dog forward is great. Then it becomes “yes, tunnel, get it (or whatever your cue for getting a toy or treat is)”. You can also use a treat and train if your dog is familiar with it to keep that forward focus and work up to your dog hitting that position even when you’re behind.
My feedback for this is very similar to the things that Sarah mentioned. I’m not a big fan of non-reward markers so rather than marking it as wrong when he only gets 1 foot, I would wait until the second front foot hits and then mark and reward. As Sarah said, these ones would be lower value Reinforcement. You’re trying to let him learn that the quicker the 2nd foot gets to the ground, the quicker he will get reinforced. And if you are using a tunnel forward then the tunnel becomes the reward.
I would also use something to help with forward focus. Either a treat and train or dead toy. I think a lot of his hesitation to drive forward is your location. What happens if you do recalls across the board? Does he drive faster?
His forward focus is better with a treat and train or dead toy. When I first began 2o2o it was just shaping with a clicker, then I moved to a treat and train. Even with fading the t&t to several feet away and to the side he had reasonable drive to position. This was maybe in March. I’ve come back to 2o2o just in the last couple of weeks thinking it’s about time to move to the dog walk and his performance seems to have degraded. He is very high drive for most things. I can send to tunnels from an entire length of a course if necessary. He just seems tentative with this behavior. I’ll grab some recalls over the plank tomorrow and see what I get.
Yes, I’d love to see video of the recalls across the board and, if possible, I’d love to see videos with a treat and train or dad toy. You have a very nice two on two off but we want to make sure we have that high-quality performance with all types of proofing before we go any further. No reason to put him on a 36 foot elevated board if you aren’t getting what you want on a 12 foot flat board.
You were correct in that his recalls to me are much, much better than the sends. Even to a dead toy or treat and train. I’ve include a few reps for you to have a look at. In the video there are a couple of recalls, some sends to a dead toy, and a release to a tunnel. At about minute two, that is not a hung video, I was just seeing if he would offer the 2o2o. Thanks guys for your help!
https://youtu.be/6YLqSMUpgbE
Pretty good training session. Here are a few adjustments I would make and things to do going forward.
Feedback: https://youtu.be/NgaRQfFb5F0
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll go back to recalls with the toy and then fade myself from the picture. I really think this will be a big help!!